Saturday, August 6, 2016

Scotland: Wrecked

While I didn’t write a formal blog post for my Summer 2016 European adventures, I thought it’d be fun to share some memories I initially stored on Facebook.


Quick break from a busy day. Morning started with laundry-time in the apartment before taking a nice walk under rare blue skies. Then it was performance time: three shows back to back. First was "Oh, Hello," performed by Jamie Rees. It was an impulse decision, but a good one: a one-person show about an aging performer's descent from lubricated self-confidence to tragic realization about his diminished value. Hilarious and sad. For some reason I thought that this piece was fictional. Turns out I need to learn more about the real actor named Charles Hawtrey. Anyway, after that it was time to climb into a hot and stuffy venue - an actual wrecked car - to follow the clues to how the performer got herself (and the backseat audience) into this crash. I didn't so much love the story as I dug the experience, particularly the knowledge that every person sitting with me was equally perplexed by the whole thing.


Afterward I bought a dram of 18-year Ledaig (pronounced Led-Chig, though there's some debate on that topic) before stumbling into something billed as a comedy show but was actually an interview program featuring a man who injects himself with snake venom, a woman who eats pieces of brick, and a dude pulled up from the audience who described the effects of having one of his testicles blow up to the size of a grapefruit. So, yeah, I'm getting plenty of the Edinburgh Fringe experience! Later on I'll drop by a party for Matthew Spangler's adaptation of The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. After that, who knows?

Friday, August 5, 2016

Scotland: First Fringe

While I didn’t write a formal blog post for my Summer 2016 European adventures, I thought it’d be fun to share some memories I initially stored on Facebook.


First Fringe performances! We started with Breakfast with Vivaldi, a delightful and fascinating hybrid of music and dialogue featuring the relationship between earnest Vivaldi and horndog Handel set against the backdrop of the Spanish Inquisition. We then had lunch at The White Hart Inn with several of the actors and performers (and some quarter-cask Laphroaig), enjoying conversation about some of the humorous behind-the-scenes dimensions of the show. Hanns and I thereafter meandered to an even more intimate venue, Paradise at the Vault, where we saw a contemporary adaptation of Macbeth set in a youth offenders prison, with a cast of three! It was fun snagging front row seats, close enough to smell the sweat - fun, that is, until the daggers went flying. Then it was a bit too close for comfort. I imagined the story folks would tell: There's Andy, enjoying his first Edinburgh Fringe Festival, only to get stabbed at the end of "The Scottish Play." But then again, what a way to go!

Later...


Tonight was even more fun than today. Was amazed by Matthew Spangler's adaptation of The Rime of the Ancient Mariner - and blown away by Benjamin Evett's masterful performance. Even better, I had a chance to tell Ben personally at dinner afterward (returning, of course, to Greyfriars Bobby) how much I loved how he put heart, soul, and courage into that one-person show. Amazing! After dinner I was so jazzed that I checked the "around me" function of the Fringe app and found a comedy/magic/burlesque show right across from my apartment. And it was free! Gonna sleep in a bit tomorrow, and then return to the fray.

Thursday, August 4, 2016

Scotland: "That’s not the one you want"

While I didn’t write a formal blog post for my Summer 2016 European adventures, I thought it’d be fun to share some memories I initially stored on Facebook.


Today was initially dedicated to the Scottish National Museum, but the sun was so nice in the morning that we agreed that it’d be much more fun to walk around the city. We’re expecting lots of drizzly days, so the rare opportunity to enjoy blue skies was too nice to pass up. We walked to the new town area and surveyed blocks of apartments with formal Georgian facades and well-manicured gardens. Then we headed to St. Cuthbert’s Graveyard under gradually darkening skies and the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. Yes, I'll admit it: I used a headstone once or twice as an impromptu tripod. There, I said it.


Afterward it was off to Deacon Brodie’s Tavern for my first taste of Oban whisky, a pint of the house brew, and some really tasty mac and cheese. Thereafter we ambled up and down the Royal Mile a bit, wandering past buskers, mimes, bagpipers, pamphleteers, pickpockets, and other working folks. Finally we went to a whisky shop for some Glen Moray to replenish the stuff that came with the apartment. The sales-guy poured his pitch on thick: “Ach noh! That’s not the one you want,” before pointing out bottles costing twice as much. Hanns and I nodded in appreciation at his various appeals, including a not-so-veiled implication that we must be trying our “very first whisky,” thanked him for his persuasive efforts, and bought what we came to buy. To any curious loved ones at home, by the way, we passed on the whisky flavored condoms.

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Scotland: Wandering Edinburgh

While I didn’t write a formal blog post for my Summer 2016 European adventures, I thought it’d be fun to share some memories I initially stored on Facebook.


Edinburgh is so charming and vibrant, and every interaction I’ve had with local folks has been so nice! Yesterday was all about getting acclimated to the Fringe ticketing system, selecting potential shows, figuring out where the pick-up places are, and getting better accustomed to the orientation of the streets and landmarks. Today Hanns and I walked the Royal Mile to Holyrood Castle and Abbey where, among other things, we toured Mary Queen of Scots’ chambers and learned more about her dismal life.


After a walk through the castle gardens, festooned with glorious flower arrangements, we hiked up Arthur's Seat for a grand view of the city, bolstered by bracing wind and hints of rain. Having earned our lunch, we grabbed a table at World’s End for burgers, beer, and hard cider. Of course after so many sausages, potatoes, and deep brown sauces, I think our next meal had better contain some leafy green things. We wrapped up our afternoon with a walk through the Greyfriars Kirk graveyard, being sure to commune awhile with Greyfriars Bobby, the Skye Terrier who supposedly guarded the grave of his beloved owner for 14 years. What shall we do tonight? Don't know yet, but I'm feeling optimistic.


Later on...

It's the little things: Go to Tesco to get a SIM card for my phone. Purchase the card, eject the old card, pocket old card for safety, realize I need to fiddle with the plastic to release the super-tiny-mini-card. Fiddle, fiddle, fiddle. Snap. Release. Now it's time to eject my card tray and insert the new card. Press paper clip into hole, press paper clip into hole, press paper clip into hole... Nothing. Calm, focus, keep pressing. It's getting loud in the Tesco and I'm starting to sweat. Gather my stuff and haul back to the apartment. Sit down at dining room table. Breathe in and out. Slowly insert paper clip to eject tray. Push, push, push. Nothing. Look up video for "can't eject SIM card." Notice on video that the guy has the entire tray in his hand. "The entire tray comes out?" I ask. "What the hell?" Hmmm. Maybe... Walk back to Tesco. It's drizzly and cold. I feel stupid. Start gazing up and down the floor, drawing attention of helpful security guard. Scan for a tiny piece of metal that surely won't be on the floor. No tray, no tray, no... There's the damned tray, beaming up at me. "Where have you been," it asks me in a silvery, mocking voice. "Gotcha," I exclaim. Savor walk of pride back to apartment. Who cares if it's rainy? Sit down at table, insert the tray, slip the card, type in the code, fire up the service: everything works like a charm. Now I'm sipping some Glen Moray, feeling rather pleased with myself.

Friday, July 22, 2016

Trainwreck Trump

Miami Herald
For many Americans yesterday began with an increasing din of anger and frustration that a North Miami police officer named Jonathan Aledda shot an unarmed black man earlier this week, despite the fact that he was on his back with his hands in the air, begging with remarkable calmness not to be executed. Turns out the man, Charles Kinsey, was working as a caregiver for a person with autism who also sat in the street, rocking and anxious, holding a toy truck. We are told that officers feared that the truck was a weapon being used in a threatening manner, despite Kinsey’s vehement protests that he was safe, that cops were safe, and that nobody needed to shoot anyone. We are also told that when Kinsey asked an officer after being shot, “Sir, why did you shoot me?” The reply was singularly chilling: “I don’t know.”

While North Miami cops shot Kinsey on Monday, many Americans were still struggling to make sense out of this incredible breach of judgment yesterday. Yet I saw no rowdy protests, no political leaders racing to Kinsey’s bed for photo-ops. I suppose the fact that police had merely shot the man in his leg but somehow failed to kill him reduced the horror of the moment. Yet I also suspect that we are growing increasingly used to many (though hardly all) police officers, sworn to protect and serve, occupying the streets as an army, shooting first and asking questions later. We are becoming far too familiar with these surreal scenes, coming to accept that a significant portion of our nation has lost its moorings.

Nick Stern, AP
I can be forgiven, I hope, in finding a strange parallel to the fact that Republicans officially nominated Donald Trump as their standard-bearer the day after Kinsey was nearly murdered in the streets. And of course his party rallied for a fire and brimstone oration last night that featured the sorts of dog whistle rhetoric that unites the contemporary GOP. Mockery of “political correctness,” castigation of immigrants, and a Nixonian pledge for “law and order” repeated four times in 76 minutes. Trump envisioned an America that is plunging over an abyss, shouting for more than an hour and promising that, “I am your voice.” What’s most disturbing about the speech is that he’s not entirely wrong; he’s just diagnosing the wrong problem. Too many Americans have adopted Trump’s sort of authoritarian, know-nothing nativism. Too many Americans are willing to look upon the world as being filled only with threats to shoot rather than problems to solve. And too many Americans are willing to tolerate the nominee of a major political party whose lies and distortions are putting a generation of fact-checkers’ children through college.

Brooks Kraft for Politico
Hell, I was too. Last night I watched Trump’s speech with a sort of detached amazement, but also an acceptance that is frightening in retrospect. I anticipated the extent of his self-aggrandizement, I recognized the implications of his scapegoating, and I marveled at the shamelessness of his demagoguery. Yet, as was the case when I first saw the footage of Charles Kinsey begging police not to shoot him before being shot, I found myself less shocked and angry than battered and bemused. Only this morning when some of my friends took to Facebook to say, “Can you believe that Republicans chose this guy?” - only then did I remember: Oh yeah, this isn’t some televised spectacle; this is happening in my country. And so far I haven’t done much to stop it. Certainly Jenny and I gave to the Sanders campaign, we planted our Sanders yard sign and festooned our Prius with a Sanders bumper sticker. And, yes, we will support the Clinton campaign, despite that candidate’s many, many flaws. In what passes for democracy, we can make these humble contributions.

New York Daily News
Still, I remember one more surreal moment amid a circus of shocking images: Talk show host Laura Ingraham wrapping up her screed against GOP holdouts who haven’t yet committed to Trump (and against wearers of skinny jeans and man buns, for some reason) with a stiff-armed salute that evoked Nazism. Certainly Ingraham had the good sense to recognize her error as she awkwardly rotated through a series of other nonverbal tributes, as if a Nazi salute, even a mistaken one, is just one more of those things we’ve come to accept in today’s America. And she’s been rightly mocked for her cluelessness. But the larger point remains: This country isn’t auditioning for some odious reality show, some fast food pleasure to be passively consumed and excreted in guilty solitude. A large number of our people are waving signs, hoisting placards, and pledging their commitment, not to a clown but to a genuine threat to our country. Those of us who must stop him must not stoop to his tactics, or the vile bullying employed by some of the thugs who support him. But we must also no longer watch this trainwreck as detached observers.

Peacefully but persistently we must stop this locomotive before it takes us all over the cliff.

Sunday, July 3, 2016

France: Parisian drizzle

While I didn’t write a formal blog post for my Summer 2016 European adventures, I thought it’d be fun to share some memories I initially stored on Facebook.


A slightly drizzly day in Paris is still, well, a day in Paris. After our early afternoon nap we headed out to chase the Green Fairy at La Fée Verte. Jenny, of course, abstained from absinthe but kept a close eye as I started feeling that my ear was hanging a bit too low. We then ducked into a pastry shop for some macarons and meringue, which we carried for a leisurely stroll to the metro that, following lots of twists and turns, brought us to the Panthéon, where we communed with Voltaire and Rousseau. Then we headed to Jardin Du Luxembourg for an early evening concert of Chopin. Dinner was light, a selection of appetizers and cocktails at Georgette (again, Jenny opted for hot chocolate instead of what is arguably the best Manhattan I’ve ever enjoyed). Now we’re back in our little hotel room, plotting tomorrow’s adventures in la Ville Lumière.

Thursday, June 30, 2016

Spain: Missing batteries in Barcelona

While I didn’t write a formal blog post for my Summer 2016 European adventures, I thought it’d be fun to share some memories I initially stored on Facebook.


The good news: After a wonderful day exploring the Sagrada Familia, Jenny and I enjoyed a delightful evening of Flamenco at Tablao Flamenco Cordobes. The food was off-the-charts amazing. Maybe not such incredible quality, but you can't beat the deal: An endless supply of gazpacho, jamon, paella, and other yummy treats - not to mention a vast assortment of desserts and all-you-can-drink wine. Oh, and then there's the show. New and more seasoned performers stomping and dancing to 19th century Catalan torch songs, inspiring the audience to clap along with increasing frenzy. The scene was incredible. Of course you'll have to take my word for it; I forgot to bring a battery for our travel camera. Fortunately Jenny is patient with my occasional cluelessness. She merely reminded me a dozen times that I owe her big time. Next mistake she makes, she merely needs to remind me: "Dude, you forgot the battery that night in Barcelona."