Beijing 2012 - Day 19 (Songzhuang)

Throughout my stay in Beijing, I've hoped to check out G-Dot gallery's "Do Not Erase" street art exhibit, but its distance from the metro intimated me. Heck, I couldn't even find the place on Google Maps. No matter, today would be the day: I would visit G-Dot! So I met with Ian, our local 14-year old Beijing guru, and plotted a course to Songzhuang, a capital of Beijing's avant-garde.

After more than an hour onboard a crowded, bumpy bus, I found myself standing on a dusty intersection of galleries and construction sites. I studied my hand-written maps, double-checked my directions, and - yes, once more - promptly got lost. Fortunately a nice gallery owner was willing to lend a hand; he even insisted that I accept a ride. A few minutes later I commenced my G-Dot tour [Check out more pix].

Sometimes you've just got to trust folks.

Day 18 | Day 20

Beijing 2012 - Day 18 (Panjiayuan and 3.3 Underground)

Friday morning begins with a couple hours spent strolling the Panjiayuan Antiques Market, a must-visit stop for anyone seeking rows and rows of Mao-morabilia, stacks of books, piles of knickknacks, and a seemingly endless array of scrolls and signature "chops." I purchase a knock-off print that mashes up Cultural Revolution-era idealism with post-Deng "To Be Rich is Glorious" capitalist excess [Wang Guangyi's 1993 Great Castigation Series: Coca-Cola]. I can only hope this thing will survive the trip from China to my SJSU office!

Later, I look for the 3.3 Building's collection of underground parking lot street art - once more getting hopelessly lost in the process. When I finally reach my destination, I spot an amazing assortment of graffiti [More pix here]. I also meet an inquisitive fellow who sports a red armband and gentle amazement at my presence. He asks question after question and announces his plans to follow me throughout his underground domain. My new friend asks for my mobile phone number but settles for my work number. I snap some final photos and begin the search for a gracious exit.

The evening ends with a follow-up journey to the Silk Market to hunt for more t-shirts. That's when I learn the value of having small bills Trying to wrap up one especially brutal haggling session, I face a young woman willing to batter me into submission. Barely suppressing a smile, she slaps my arm, repeatedly assuring me, "You crazy! You crazy!" when I'm foolish enough to ask for my change. She even grabs something I'd bought from someone else and adds that purchase to our new "negotiation." Her playful theatrics are worth every Yuan I've spent. 

Day 17 | Day 19

Beijing 2012 - Day 17 (Pearl and Silk Markets, Sihui street art)

This morning I met with some students for brunch at "Grandma's Kitchen." Several of them had searched for days to find this bastion of American-style food. Finally they spotted "Grandma's" Jianwai Soho location near Guomao station [Here's a map]. This place is pricey, serving up Denny's-quality pancakes and burgers. Nonetheless students gorged on their meals, bundling two or three orders apiece to produce their own personal feasts.

Later a few of us journeyed to the Pearl Market for some shopping and a chance to practice our haggling skills. The game is rigged at this kind of tourist trap, with westerners inevitably singled out for high prices. But it's a fun encounter nonetheless. You learn to react with shock at the opening bid, responding with a much lower counter-offer. You trade a few friendly jabs, and you might even walk away, knowing that the seller will generally chase you down if your price is remotely reasonable, offering one last "absolute best deal." At my best, I could buy a t-shirt for 20 Yuan, bargaining the price down from 150 [spending about three bucks for something that may or may not endure a few washings]. As ever, you get what you pay for.

Heading back to the hotel, I got off early at the Sihui station for one more street art excursion. I'd seen a "Garfield" sprayed on a wall there and had to grab a quick photo. Of course, the barriers that seem invisible while riding a train become vividly apparent when walking outside. Still, despite the blistering heat, I had enough time and patience - and a sufficient willingness to squeeze past some barriers - to get my shot.

At night I visited the Silk Market, which offers a much wider selection of clothes than the Pearl. Some of the stuff I'd packed had gotten pretty well trashed on this trip, and I was ready to complete my search for an "ObaMao" shirt (that clever mashup of Barack Obama and Chairman Mao that was briefly banned by the Chinese government during a presidential visit [CSM]). By now I'd learned to double-check the sizes before buying anything. China's version of "large" is clearly not designed with Americans in mind.

Day 16 | Day 18

Beijing 2012 - Day 16 (Temple of Heaven, Kungfu Show)

Independence Day in China! Many of us enjoyed the rare opportunity to sleep in, meeting in the afternoon for a Temple of Heaven excursion, followed by an early evening "Kung Fu Experience." Yeah, it was cool, but our group is plainly exhausted. Really, there's not much more to say.

Day 15 | Day 17

Beijing 2012 - Day 15 (Chaoyang Road)

Today's classroom conversations were productive, but I can tell that students are starting to wind down. Heck, I am too. Yet it's worthwhile to see them learning to bypass the touristic gaze, the blasé perspective that yields plenty of surface while revealing little real depth. These folks are beginning to see Beijing in more interesting, more nuanced ways [at least I hope they are!]

After class, I joined a small group of students determined to investigate a nearby abandoned housing complex. Two of our especially adventurous students had already visited this place (stepping over broken glass and climbing narrow ladders on their first night in Beijing!), and they brought back photos of some amazing graffiti [Check out the pix]. There was no way I would miss this!

Day 14 | Day 16

Beijing 2012 - Day 14 (CCTV, NCPA)

Our third week in China, and SJSU students have clearly become confident in their mastery of the complexities of big city transportation, even as they've survived their wanderings through some dense course material. Class began with student summaries of their weekend activities, including stories shared by our two nomads who spent 48 hours in Shanghai. I was glad to hear of their adventures, but mostly I was thrilled that they made it back to us!

After our initial weekend "show and tell," we spent some time summarizing key ideas related to panopticism and the flâneur gaze, using those theoretical lenses to read and interpret some of Beijing's practical realities. The conversation got thick mighty quick, particularly when we considered whether premodern, modern, and postmodern culture might reside simultaneously in China.

We could have spent another hour in class, but the weather was simply too nice to stay inside. Those blue skies called us all to hit the metros in search of new experiences. For me, that meant an opportunity to check out Rem Koolhaas's China Central Television Headquarters [More pix here], followed by a trip to Paul Andreu's "Bird's Egg" (a.k.a. the National Centre for the Performing Arts). Studying these outlandish examples of contemporary architecture, I am perpetually awestruck and alarmed. It'll take months to process some of these days.

Day 13 | Day 15

Beijing 2012 - Day 13 (Xihuan Square and CJFH)

Today revealed more blue skies, which meant more opportunities to explore Beijing. I started with a quick metro ride to Xihuan Square, a trio of oval towers whose remarkable design inspired Yi Feng to write an essay entitled, "Tradition and Postmodernism: The Xihuan Plaza and the Ancient City Gate," and having visited this site, I have to agree: Anyone interested in Beijing's most memorable contemporary architecture should come to Xihuan Square at least once.

Later on I headed to Huixinxijie Nankou Station [Exit C] where I stumbled around for a couple hours, searching for a collection of street art supposedly near the China-Japan Friendship Hospital. As usual, I got lost, and the burning heat seemed to dull my navigation sense. But I found a few folks willing to tolerate my clueless inquiries and, little by little, I found my destination [Check out the pix]. A quiet and focused day: Just what I needed!

Day 12 | Day 14